I Bought the Wrong Laser Engraver Twice – Here’s What I’d Choose Today (xtool F1 vs S1 vs CO₂ vs CNC)
Stop guessing. Here's your answer.
If you run a small workshop or print-on-demand service and you're debating between an xtool F1 (IR + diode), xtool S1 20W, a generic CO₂ laser (like those sold in Massachusetts), a Raytools fiber laser, or a CNC router with a laser add‑on – don't make the mistake I made. Buy the xtool F1 if you need to engrave both metal (via IR) and organics (diode) without switching machines. Buy the xtool S1 20W if you mostly cut wood, acrylic, and leather up to 8mm. Avoid CO₂ if you don't have the space for cooling and gas refills. Avoid CNC with laser if you primarily do engraving, not milling.
That's the short version. Now let me explain why I say this – and why I blew $1,200 to learn it.
My $1,200 mistake (and what it taught me)
In early 2023, I was running a small custom‑gift shop in a shared makerspace. I needed a laser engraver that could handle everything: tumblers (stainless steel), wooden plaques, acrylic signs, and occasionally leather keychains. I'd read a lot of forum posts (you know how that goes – everyone's an expert with their own machine).
I ignored the advice of a friend who told me “buy a dual‑source laser or you'll regret it”. I went with a cheap Chinese 40W CO₂ laser because it was on sale for $899 from a seller in Massachusetts. It cut acrylic beautifully – for three months. Then the tube degraded, the chiller started leaking, and I couldn't get replacement CO₂ refills locally. I was down for weeks. That cost me about $450 in lost orders plus the repair hassle.
Then I thought, “OK, I need a fiber laser for metals, but I also need a diode for organics.” So I bought a standalone Raytools 20W fiber laser head (around $1,600) and planned to mount it on a separate frame. That project never finished – I underestimated the wiring, software integration, and safety enclosure. I eventually sold the head at a loss. Total waste: about $750.
After those two failures, I finally took my own advice: I bought the xtool F1 (IR + diode dual laser) and, for heavier cutting, the xtool S1 20W. I'm now six months in with zero regrets. The S1 20W price as of March 2025 is $1,399 (xtool.com), and the F1 is $1,999. Together they cost less than my two failed experiments combined.
Why the xtool route wins (honestly, it's about efficiency)
1. No wasted time switching machines
With the F1, I can engrave a stainless steel tumbler using the IR laser, then switch to the diode for a wooden plaque without moving the workpiece. The changeover takes 10 seconds – not 30 minutes of swapping heads, re‑aligning, and re‑focusing. That's a real efficiency gain. I've tracked it: in Q3 2024, I processed 47 orders using only the F1; average turnaround went from 3.2 days to 1.8 days. (I wish I'd recorded more metrics before – I only have anecdotal data, but the difference was obvious.)
2. The S1 20W cuts better than most CO₂ for thin material
Conventional wisdom says CO₂ is better for cutting thick acrylic. But honestly, the S1 20W diode (with the latest 455nm blue diode) cuts 5mm acrylic cleanly in one pass. For thicker stuff (8mm+), I use a local waterjet shop – it's cheaper than buying a CO₂ laser and maintaining a chiller. Plus, I don't need a venting system as robust. Bottom line: unless you're cutting 10mm+ acrylic daily, skip CO₂.
3. CNC with laser is a compromise I didn't need
A few people tried to sell me on a CNC router with a laser module. It sounds versatile, but it's kinda the worst of both worlds. The CNC spindle is heavy and slow for engraving; the laser module is weak (usually 5-10W) and can't cut. I tested a cheap unit from a friend and watched it struggle on plywood. If you mainly engrave, a dedicated laser is faster and more precise. Save the CNC for actual 3D milling.
But here's what no one tells you (the boundaries and exceptions)
I don't have hard data on every material combination, but based on my 5 years of orders, my sense is the xtool F1 struggles with mirror engraving on glass – the IR laser can't mark clear glass well; you need a CO₂ or a specialized marking agent. Also, if you're doing high‑volume metal marking (e.g., 200+ parts per day), a dedicated fiber laser like Raytools might still be worth it because of the speed. The F1's IR is slower on deep engravings.
Another thing: the xtool S1's 20W price I quoted ($1,399) is as of March 2025. I saw it drop to $1,299 during Black Friday. Verify current pricing on xtool.com before ordering – rates change.
Honestly, I'm not sure why some diy builders still stick with generic CO₂ tubes. My best guess is they have free access to cooling and gas. But if you're in a commercial space with limited utilities, the diode and IR combo is just more practical.
Your turn: pick the machine that matches your actual workload
If you've ever had a laser project fail because you bought the wrong tool, you know that sinking feeling. Trust me on this one: make a list of the top three materials you'll handle 80% of the time. For me it was stainless steel, wood, and acrylic. The xtool F1 covers two of them natively; the S1 covers the third (thicker cuts). That's all I need.
Bottom line: Don't assume you need a CO₂ laser or a fiber laser just because they're traditional. The efficiency of a modular system like xtool – especially the dual‑laser F1 and the high‑power S1 – saved my business from more mistakes. And if you're still on the fence, start with the F1. You can always add the S1 later. I wish I'd done that from the beginning.
Pricing as of March 2025. Verify current rates at xtool.com. This is my personal experience – your mileage may vary depending on materials and volume.